What to look for.

The Information below was for my own use. This helped me in my search for a Scimitar GTE. Past experience has shown me that when viewing a Car it is easy to forget to check some things. It helps to have someone with you who has some knowledge of the Car you are Interested in. This Information assumes some knowledge of Cars, i.e. what to look for regards Engine Wear, Gearbox transmission problems etc. Most of the Information below gives specific information on what to look for regards a Scimitar GTE. I recognise that Scimitars are a "Few" years old and Problems can occur due to Age, i.e. rubber parts perish ( Hydraulics ) etc.

I would like to acknowledge that this information was either sent to me from Scimitar Owners via various message boards, or I found the Information by searching Web Sites. If any of the Information contained below is yours and you object to me using it please e-mail me and I will remove. If anyone thinks the Information is useful to them please feel free to copy and use it. I realise that there are a greater range of Scimitars but this information is mainly for the GTE SE5 and SE5a, my area of interest. If anyone has any suggestions please e-mail me and I will include/amend/remove as required.

I realise that when veiwing a Car you may not be able to do all of the below but to have to much information is better than not having enough.

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Time Line. Numbers in Italics are Chassis Numbers. See Table 1.

Mar 1961 - 1963, Reliant Sabre 4 (SE1)
It was Reliant's first step both into sports- and 4-wheeled (under their own label) cars.

Oct 1962 - 1964, Reliant Sabre Six (SE2)

1965, Ogle GTS
Based on the SE4a a very interesting car, which should rather be called "concept car" than prototype.

Oct 1966 - 1968, Reliant Scimitar GT (SE4a)
Due to withdraw of the Ford straight-6 engine, Reliant also had to change the engine to the new V-6 Ford Essex engine.
1969 - Nov 1970, Reliant Scimitar GT (SE4b)

Aug 1967 - 1970, Reliant Scimitar GT (SE4c)
2.6l version of Scimitar Coupe
Aug 1968 - 1970, Reliant Scimitar GTE (SE5)

SE5 Aug-68 1 101
1969 102 740
1970 741 1734
1971 1735 2500
Oct 450500 BW35 automatic transmission made option; rear wiper/washer

An SE5 has Reversing lights below the bumper either side of the number plate.
A flat dashboard with toggle switches, plus rotary wiper switches just in front of the gear stick. Original GTE was the SE5, which has hand-made interior (still in plastic!)
and a droopier snoot.

Oct 1971 - 1975, Reliant Scimitar GTE (SE5a)
SE5a Oct-71 2501 2821 REVISED INTERIOR ETC
1972 2822 4030 UPRATED ENGINE FROM 453501
June453501 UPRATED 3 litre engine
Sep 93/1001 93/1601 new chassis numbering scheme. 1001 is first man O/D, 1003 is first automatic

An SE5A has The reversing lights integral with the other rear lamps. A moulded plastic dashboard with plastic rocker switches, and eyeball vents just in front of the gear stick. Interior has many more moulded plastic components which are v. diff. to obtain. Slightly higher front and lights. Uprated engine on post 1972 cars.

1975 - 1976, Reliant Scimitar GTE (SE6)
Chassis Numbers. See Note 1.
SE6 Oct-75 1008 1015 1001-1007?
1976 1016 1550 1551?
Wider, longer, posher, slower - more like a saloon car than a sports car. Cooling system must be well maintained to work. All the interior is moulded plastic which is prone to cracking.

1976 - 1979, Reliant Scimitar GTE (SE6a)
SE6a 1976 1552 2231
1977 2232 3804
1978 3805 4648
1979 4649 5428 CHANGED TO 19 DIGIT THIS YEAR

Major reliability problems that plagued the SE6 were fixed. Better brakes. Still needs the cooling system to be A1.

1979 - 1986, Reliant Scimitar GTE (SE6b)
SE6b Nov-79 5429 5493
1980 5494 5568
1981 5569 5609
1982 5610 5674
1983 5675 5753
1984 5754 5836 5836 MIDDLEBRIDGE PROTOTYPE
1985 5837 5857
1986 5858 5865 5865 PRINCESS ANNE'S 7TH
As SE6a but with 2.8 engine (carburetor) - even less sporty! Very late cars galvanised chassis.

1975 5M4918301001 5M4718301015
1976 6A4418101016 6H4818101550
6H4818101552 6M4018302231 Scimitar SE6a
1977 7A4318302232 7M4718103804
1978 8A4418103805 8M5818404648
1979 9A5818404649 1840559L005428 modified chassis numbering following international scheme
1903559L005429 1903609M005493 Scimitar SE6b
1980 190155AF005494 190160AM005568
1981 190311BA005569 190362BM005609
1982 190158CA005610 190199CM005674
1983 190199DA005675 190199DM005753
1984 190399EA005754 190176EM005836
1985 190199FA005837 190156FL005857
1986 190155GA005858 190199GD005865

1980 - 1986, Reliant Scimitar GTC (SE8b)

1984 - 1990, Reliant Scimitar SS1 1300

1984 - 1990, Reliant Scimitar SS1 1600

1987 - 1990, Reliant Scimitar SS1 1400

1988, Reliant Scimitar SS2

1988 - 1990, Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800ti

Feb 1990 - 1990?, Reliant Scimitar SST

1994? - 1996?, Reliant Scimitar Sabre

Table 1. Ref Chassis Numbers, Codes Etc.
12 DIGIT No's

5 J 48 182 01001

YEAR MONTH PAINT MODEL SERIAL No
LAST A=JAN 181 MOD
DIGIT I NOT USED 182 MOD PAS
ONLY SO 183 AUTO
J=SEPT 184 AUTO PAS

19 DIGIT No's

SCD 19 03 55 9 L 5429

GTE MODEL PAINT YEAR MONTH SERIAL No
01=MOD LAST DIGIT ONLY A=JAN
03=AUTO 1980=A I NOT USED
J=SEPT

PAINT

11 OLYMPIC BLUE. 43 ARCTIC/EVEREST WHITE. 60 BUCKSKIN
12 FESTIVAL RED. 44 APRIL YELLOW No2. 61 AZTEC BLUE
13 PARROT GREEN. 45 ROYAL RED ?. 62 WHITE ROSE.
14 RIVIERA BROWN. 45 BEAUJOLAIS RED ?. 63 LINCOLN GREEN
15 YELLOW OCHRE. 46 IVORY BEIGE. 64 RUSSET RED
16 SIERRA TAN. 47 SIERRA TAN. 65 CELTIC BROWN
18 MEXICO BROWN. 48 LINCOLN GREEN. 66 AQUAMARINE
19 CAPRICORN BLUE. 49 CASPIAN BLUE. 67 STUNNING RED
20 MINERAL BLUE. 50 DOLPHIN GREY. 68 PANAMA
21 FLORIDA GREEN. 51 RUSSET RED. 70 FROST WHITE
22 TANGERINE. 52 GREENGAGE YELLOW. 71 SCIMITAR RED
23 SAHARA RED. 53 QUARTZ GREEN. 72 RACING GREEN
31 BAJAN BLUE. 54 MULBERRY. 73 DERWENT BLUE
32 HAZE BLUE. 55 CARMEN. 74 BIRCH SILVER
33 WILLOW GREEN. 56 CHAMPAGNE. 81 BRECON GOLD
40 CELTIC BROWN. 57 SILVER BIRCH. 82 TARN GREEN
41 CYGNET GREY. 58 TRAFALGAR BLUE. 83 ISTRIAN BLUE
42 ALASKA BLUE. 59 ELDORADO. 99 NON STD & METALLICS

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The following relates mainly to GTEs.

Chassis: The chassis are really strong, but both the SE5 and SE6 can rust badly after long periods of inattention. The chassis on the SE6b and the SE8b doesn't as it is galvanised. The truth is always somewhere in the middle. Models from 1983 and up have the galvanized chassis and should be rust free, so if rust is spotted on those, you know something happened to the car, such as poorly repaired accident damage.

Chassis front end: Rust can occur around the radiator and towards the front end. This can be seen on the panels surrounding the radiator. Also the front suspension mounting brackets can be bad especially the bottom mountings as these can trap mud etc and so hold moisture that can cause corrosion. Check under the spare wheel removing the tray under the spare wheel if possible. This is the best way of checking for corrosion in this area. The lower suspension mounting brackets will require removal of the road wheel to check correctly. When the road wheel is removed check the top shock absorber mounting.

Central chassis: Front chassis outriggers; The front outriggers and side riggers can and do collect mud that is thrown up by the front road wheel, this mud and road dirt holds moisture in and so the damp and rust will fester. A well looked after Car will have this dirt etc cleaned off regularly. Check under the car and in the wheel arches,easy to see the Front Outrigger at the rear, bottom of the Front Wheel Arch. Check the center outrigger, inspection of the upper side is almost impossible with the body on the chassis but the corrosion will normally be seen on the bottom of the outriggers and this can be seen from below. Check the Side Rail Chassis Members. Check the Center of the Side Rail where is connects to the Roll Over Bar. This Roll Over Bar runs from one side of the Car to the other between the Door and the rear side window. It can be seen inside the car across the roof. This Roll Over Bar bolts to the center chassis outrigger where it connects to the side outrigger. This area is prone to corrosion and should be examined carefully. You will see where the Roll Over Bar bolts onto the center outrigger.

Rear end: Rear Suspension mounts are important, they hold the rear suspension and the body. They should be rust free. Like the front outriggers, rear outriggers also collect mud, check both under the car and in the wheel arches (wheels preferably removed). The chassis rear end rust is hard to detect with the body on, so check around the fuel tank. The Fuel Tank is also prone to Rust so check although it is difficult (Impossible) to see the top of the fuel tank without removing it. When checking the fuel tank and you are under the Car look at the chassis in front of the tank. You will see a crossmember that connects both upper sides at the rear suspension. This will give you some idea on the condition of the bits you cannot see. The picture below shows the Main areas to check.

The Front of the Car is on the Left.

Suspension:

Rear: Not likely to cause problems, other than sagging springs, failed shock absorbers and worn bushes. There is a grease nipple for each wheel bearing. Take a good look at the bracket that connects the suspension to the rear axle. This is made in such a way that dirt etc can be trapped and can cause corrosion that will cause the bracket to come away from the axle.

Front: Based on the Triumph TR series. In fact, early SE5 have the same suspension. Double wishbone mounted on rubber bushes. These rubbers wear. They need to be replaced on a regular basis. The trunnion and the trunnion bolt need regular greasing. When neglected the bolt will fix itself in the trunnion and destroy both. Neglect the Trunnions at your peril, failure in this area will result in the Upright pulling out of the Trunnion, the wheel will then Jam up into the wheel arch, a real sense of humour failure moment, especially if it happens at speed. The trunnion is the part that connects the lower wishbone to the bottom of the upright ( the bit the stub axle and wheel bolts onto ). There are grease points (on both sides!) that need regular greasing: the trunnion (lower nipple); the trunnion bolt; ball joint (upper nipple); and the wheel bearing. Best to check with front wheels removed. If no signs of grease are visible on the Trunnion or upper ball joint expect an problems. Note that if the upper ball joint has been replaced in the not to distant past there may not be a grease nipple as some of the later types did not have the grease nipple fitted. The front springs can also sag, distance between wheel arch and road should be 25" to 27"/ 63,5 cm to 68,5 cm. (Closer to 27" is Ideal). Check the tyre's, they should wear equal and not on the inside. Also check the rear ones as there may have been a front-back swap of tyre's. To check the Front Trunnions. The car must be jacked up on axle stands with both wheels clear of the ground. Put a strong steel bar under the tyre with the inner end nearly under the chassis, and a similar length protruding so you can lever upwards on it. Gently lever the tyre up and down a small amount while feeling the trunnion bolt and the joint between the trunnion and wishbone. The key to this is gently. You only need to lever upwards enough to cause any slack to be taken up, any further leverage which starts to compress the springs is happening long after the slack movement has occurred. This is one area you neglect at your peril, this is not an expensive job as the Trunnions and bolts etc can be purchased for about £40:00 (2006 prices). The main problem is if the trunnion bolt has seized it can be a sod to do. From Chassis No. 93X3501 the Geometry of the Front Suspension and the Rating of the Damper Spring have been altered slightly to give a Softer Ride, by Increasing the Vertical Wheel Travel by 34.93mm ( 1.375in).From Chassis No. 452501-454030 and from Chassis No. 931001-933499 the Mounting Bracket was Modified and Repositioned on the Damper Unit and the Lower Wishbone Mounting Bracket, resulting in the Link assembly being inverted. See Picture Below.

When the Car is jacked up before removing the road wheel holding it at the top and bottom give it a pull/push and see if there is any mouvement, also hold the wheel at the front and rear and do the same, is there and mouvement ?. If so it could be worn wheel bearings or the bearings need adjustment. If there is mouvement check the stub axle ( The bit that the wheel bearings are connected to ) is not mouving where it connects to the upright.

Engine:
The engine used is the Ford "Essex" 3 liter V6, used in such cars as the Granada and 3.0 Capri. And the "Cologne" Engine in later Cars (1986 on ?). They were so called because the "Essex" engine was made in the Ford Factory in Essex in the U.K. and the "Cologne" engine was made in the Ford Factory in Germany. There was a change in the "Essex" Engine around 1972. The visual check for the earlier engine is the Dipstick is located in the Front Timing Cover. An up-rated 3 liter engine was introduced from chassis No. 453501-454030 and from chassis No.931001.The uprated engine has the sump rearward and Dipstick on the right side of the Engine, between Spark Plugs 3 and 5, different carb and air cleaner, cut-out in bodywork to clear revised air cleaner. Unfortunately the only modification you can guarantee your getting from the engine number is the thicker cylinder walls (unless its been rebored) The rest is internal. (cam, inlet port, piston and cam drive gear changes). A lot of scimitars will also have Engines that have came from Fords, check the Engine number and if a Scimitar Engine it will start with SC. The Engine number can be found at the right rear top of the engine, just behind the right cylinder head, may be difficult to see if lots of dirt and oil in area. If it's not a "SC" number you will need to be careful that its not a low compression van engine, if it seems quieter and smoother than most then its likely to be a low comp. Very few, if any parts of the 2.5 V6 are interchangeable with the 3.0. Litre. Oil pressure should at between 40 & 50 lb psi at 2000 rpm but it should never go above 75 lb psi unless a high pressure oil pump fitted. At idling speed (engine hot) pressure should ideally read about 25 lb psi but can be lower without to much worry but if low listen for rumble from the lower area of the engine, if a rumble can be heard could be mains bearings or big end bearings. There are two weak spots that can occur after high mileage, a worn oil pump drive shaft and worn cam timing gear but these cannot be checked without taking lots of bits off although the Cam Wheel can be check by removing the fuel pump and having a look at the Cam Wheel Teeth. Are they plastic Nylon or Fibre?. It would be advisable to replace the Cam Timing Gear and the Oil Pump Drive as soon as possible after buying the car if there's no proof of when they were last changed as they can cause a lot of damage if they fail. Look for oil and water leaks and blue smoke from the exhausts which suggest that the engine could do with an overhaul. Check inside Rocker Cover ( Oil Filler Cap ) is it clean ? No thick Gunge. Check the level of oil and water, the water should be a 50/50 anti-freeze and water mix, How clean is the Water ? Any "Funny" Smells to the Water ?. Check for signs of coolant leaks and boiled over coolant as the engine is prone to this ( Mainly SE6 etc) if not well maintained. Be wary of cars with a scummy line at water level in the header tank, could be a sign that a sealer (rad weld) has been used. On old cars with silted up waterways using sealants isn't a good idea. If the engine warms up very slowly, check that a thermostat is fitted. If there is no thermostat be suspicious. The electric cooler fan should only cut in when the temp goes above 90 ish(?) degrees, usually in traffic, but should soon cut out again. Also don't rely on the temperature gauge to judge when the fan should kick in, they can be very inaccurate. Just make sure that the fan does kick in. On cars fitted with a different fan it should run for no more than around a couple of minites. Overheating can cause warped or cracked cylinder heads which is expensive to repair. Take it out for a long run and check that there is no bubbling in the overflow bottle when the engine is stopped - if there is then the head gasket(s) may have blown. Keep away from cars with cooling fans that don't work. When driving is there any smoke from the exhaust?. If blue/black it could be burning oil due to engine wear, If smoke when accelerating the wear could be bearings, piston rings, if smoke on overrun could be valve guides or valve seals. If there is whitish smoke this could be a leaking brake servo that is allowing brake fluid to be sucked into the engine, see below in the brake information. Remember that overheating can cause warped or cracked cylinder heads, expensive to repair. Check colour and smell of oil. Also check the fuel inlet pipe to the carburetor where it attaches to the carburetor it can get loose and cause a fire and there should have been a modification visible by a pin holding in the pipe. Check the return from carb as well as the inlet, they can work loose and leak as well.

Transmission:
A number of different types of transmissions have been fitted over the Scimitars life span. First manual; with or without overdrive. Two types of overdrives are used and at least four types of gearboxes are used. SE6/6a have all the same type gearbox and overdrive. The gearboxes are all Ford products. Always be sure the overdrive works properly. It should engage and disengage without trouble. Check that the overdrive is switching off via the Dash Switch and/or the inhibit switch as reversing with an engaged overdrive kills the overdrive. Automatics: Two types: Borg Warner Type 35 and Ford C3 (some cars could be equipped with a Ford C4). The C3 is most common and better. All gears should engage easily, kickdown should work. Check for oil leaks. No gearbox or overdrive has to leak, but automatics can leak severely without other problems. Always be alert to freshly cleaned gearboxes. Propshaft's and back axles only need regular maintenance for a trouble free life. The back axle has a small air hole on the right hand back side (normally), this can be difficult to find due to dirt etc. This must be open; it is the only way for moisture and preassure to get out. Check behind/under the car. The differential oil should be changed on a regular basis. It is common to get a lot of noise (heavy clonking) from the propshaft/back axle. This is annoying but rather harmless. If there is a whine and it gets louder with the speed the differential could be worn, not to much of a problem apart from annoying but very expensive to cure. There could be oil leaks from the center of the axle where the drive goes into it. Not difficult to replace this seal but beware if there are oil leaks at the brake drums ( do not confuse with leaks from the brake slave cylinders ) as replacing the oil seals at the drums can be more than interesting due to the force required removing various bits. With the Introduction of the "J" Type Overdrive from Chassis No. 932478 a New Drive shaft was fitted which Incorporates a Sliding Spline between the Two Yokes to enable Fore and Aft movement of the Rear Axle.

Clutch.

Normal Checks. Hydraulics should be checked especially the Slave Cylinder. Hold Clutch Pedal down for a while, is there any "Downward Creep" of the Pedal so showing signs of Leakage past the seals. The Clutch Release Mechanism on Manual Models was modified to a Mechanical Cable Operation from Chassis No. 931001. To accommodate the Cable both the Pendant Pedal Assembly and Clutch Operating Fork were also Modified. It is possible that when the engine bay gets very warm that there may be problems engaging first or reverse gears. This could be caused by a number of things but one of them could be the plastic pipe that goes between the master cylinder and salve cylinder as when the plastic gets hot it goes soft and expands reducing the flow and pressure to the slave cylinder. If there are problems with the Hydraulics is is not a great problem as they are easy changed although if the slave Salve cylinder is the type that is held on by a circlip and not two bolts take care as they are very difficult to obtain. Other check are normal ones, try to pull away in fourth gear, the car should stall but if there are problems with the Clutch pressure or friction plate there will be clutch slip. This slip could be normal wear but it could be an oil leak from the engine rear crank seal. Not a major problem as if you are changing the clutch removing the flywheel will gain access to the rear crank seal that is housed in an assembly that can be easy unbolted and the seal replaced.

Cooling.

Although these checks are mentioned in the Engine Section it would seem advisable to double check the Cooling System. The SE5 series seems to have the better cooling system, there being some issues with the SE6 series. The cooling system on the SE6 series was very marginal when new so the slightest fault will cause problems.The problem arises that due to the age of the Scimitars sludge/gunge etc will build up in the cooling system and if this has not been addressed throughout the Life of the Car problems can occur. Be wary of cars with a scummy line at water level in the header tank, could be a sign that a sealer (rad weld) has been used. On old cars with silted up waterways using sealants isn't a good idea. Check for signs of leakage etc especially with the SE6 series as overheating could have caused problems with Head Distortion etc. On the Introduction of the Scimitar GTE Overdrive and Automatic from Chassis No.452501 modifications to the Cooling System were Incorporated. An Independent Electric Fan Thermostatically Controlled by a Sensor Unit to Operate only when the Radiator Coolant (at bottom of radiator) rises above 80ºC is used to Cool the Radiator.The Cooling Fan, previously fitted to the Crankshaft, and the Fan Cowl were Deleted. The normal fan and motor was just about up to the job. Take care if another fan and motor have been fitted as these may be masking a problem as some owners fit larger fans, this can mask a problem with the cooling system.

Brakes.
Keep Brake pressed for a While, Does Pedal stay in same Position ?, or slowly go towards the floor suggesting leaking pass a Rubber Piston. Do normal visual checks for Leaks etc. Nothing Special regards the Brakes but check loss of effective braking after going round a comer. This can be caused by several things. The most common cause could be loose front wheel bearings. If the bearing is loose the wheel and the disk will wobble a bit with the side load thus spreading the pads away from the disk resulting in some ineffective movement of the pads when the brakes are next applied. This problem expressed as a semi permanent feature can be caused by badly aligned calipers where the brake pistons are not working at right angles to the disk, or a distorted disk. A sticking piston which has the effect of pushing the disk off center as more force is applied from one side than the other can also give the same symptom. The cars leave the factory with shims between the calipers and their mounting points to correct the caliper alignment, but once a caliper has been off or replaced it is more than likely that the shims have been lost or misplaced.From Chassis No. 931001 the Handbrake Lever Mechanism was fitted with Two Light Switches which are connected to the Brake Pad and Brake Fluid Warning Lights on the Fascia. Brake Pad Warning Light.From Chassis No. 452501 the Brake Pads Incorporated a Warning System which by the means of a Light on the Fascia Panel which Illuminated when Pads required changing. The Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir was also fitted with a warning Device which Illuminated a Red Light on the Fascia when the Fluid Level falls below the required Level. It would be difficult to check on a normal test but loss of brake fluid with no obvious leaks could be due to the Servo, the vacuum in the Servo could "suck" the fluid out of the brake system and it will go through the Servo, into the Inlet manifold and be burnt by number 5 cylinder. In extreme cases it will show by white smoke from the right exhaust. Servos are quite expensive, repairs can be done but with brakes better not to take any risks. The Servo was a Girling Type but they are no longer available so a Lockheed may be fitted.

Electrical.

The design of the early electrical circuit is not perfect. Mod's made to the car usually make it better. Beware of wiring looms with cracked coatings. It can cause massive short circuits and fire!. Renewal is a rather difficult and time-consuming job and take care with "Mod's" done by previous owners. Earthing can be a problem due to a Fibreglass Body esspesialy when trying to start the engine due to large current being required by the starter motor. If there is a problem when starting ( i.e. there is a clunk from the starter motor check the connection from the battery to the tray below the spare wheel and there should be an earth strap from one of the bolts of the starter motor to the chassis but remember a prvious owner may have made changes. Check if everything works properly. Check, if possible, for corroded dash switch contacts. These create high resistance, causing more heat than the switches and contacts can handle. They could melt with a risk of short circuits or worse. Check if everything works properly, Lights/Indicators Wash/Wipe (Rear if fitted).

Exterior Coachwork.

The body is made of fibreglass, and while it has distinct advantages over steel (no rust, one piece construction etc.), it also has its own problems: Beware of cracks and crazing. A complete professional respray will cost a lot of money, doing it yourself will obviously be cheaper but can be very time consuming as to do it right will require all the paint etc to be removed down to the gel-coat to get at the grazing etc. There could be small blisters in the paint, this is caused by moisture getting under the paint. Check the body for all irregularities. Recent respray's can cover horror cracks. Check the condition of the metal parts especially the bumpers as these are rare parts and hard very hard to find replacements that are in good condition unless they can be re-chromed but check the cost of re-chroming as that can also be a very expensive thing to get done. Check the body for any irregularities like door gaps. Recent re-sprays can cover a multitude of sins so beware. SE5 models have metal reinforcements in the bodyshell which can rust and crack the body due to the metal swelling especially under the door treads on the sills. This is quite a difficult job to repair. Some of the rubber parts like window seals are getting difficult to find at a "reasonable" price. The front quarter light rubbers are now impossible to find, occasionally they come up for sale (e-bay etc ) but should be considered as unobtainable. Some owners seal the quarter light windows in perminately.

Interior:
The front seat frames can break and also the ratchet for the tilt mechanism can wear and if the seat back is able to be pushed back on the ratchet this is an MOT failure. The leather seats of later cars can be badly cracked and are expensive to get repaired. SE5a interior panels are made of a plastic that degrades under heat of the sun. The panels can be quite severely cracked but replacements are available although difficult to find and expensive. Check all interior trim to make sure it's all there and not badly worn as some parts are hard to find. Check for water leaks into the interiour as any window can and will leak but this can be fixed with new rubbers and or window sealant. Another source of leaks is from the roof gutters. Because of wet interiors carpets sometimes rot away but can be replaced. The tailgate hinges can rust and stop working causing them to break away from the body of the car. The struts that hold the tailgate open can fail. The struts are obtainable, the tail gate hinges if broken where they go into the body at the top can be repaired but is a real sod of a job. A Two Spoke Steering Wheel has been fitted from Chassis No. 93X3501 to Improve Visibility of the Main Fascia Instruments. A Folding rear Tonneau Cover was fitted from Chassis No. 93X3501.

SE5a general - new door inner trim panels, dashboard, center arm rest, bonnet hinges, sill trim strips added, waist trim strips removed (painted), chrome strip at base of door side.

Electric windows optional from 931001 onwards. Check that they both work, could be problems with the switches or the motors.

Exterior:
If the windscreen is a laminated type it is possible that it will look white-ish around the edges. This is due to moisture getting between the laminate, it cannot be repaired. Windscreens are obtainable, check your local Windsreen dealer. Check for cracks and crazing or flaking paint. A complete professional re-spray will be expensive and if you are going to tackle it yourself it will take a very long time to do it properly. Check the body for any irregularities like door gaps. Recent re-sprays can cover a multitude of sins so beware. SE5 models have metal reinforcements in the bodyshell which can rust and crack the body due to the metal swelling especially under the door treads on the sills. This is quite a difficult job to repair. Check Rear Window hinges as this can be a difficult job to repair. Grill - 3 bar (SE5), 5 bar (SE5a). " Badges - 3 litre badge on front wings (SE5), shield (SE5a) Coach line - Aluminum (SE5), painted (SE5a) Aluminum strip along lower edge of sill (SE5a only)

Wheels.
Wolfrace wheels were a factory option. They were expensive then and still are. They take a lot of work to keep clean and shinny. Earlier cars can have Dunlop wheels (SE5/5a/6/6a). These Dunlop wheels are composites, alloy centers, steel, chromed rims. The metals used can corrode each other. Hard ( Almost Impossible) to restore. Other cars can be fitted with steel wheels with fibreglass covers.